{"id":16331,"date":"2016-08-30T11:46:23","date_gmt":"2016-08-30T15:46:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.genealogybank.com\/?p=16331"},"modified":"2021-04-19T14:55:49","modified_gmt":"2021-04-19T18:55:49","slug":"everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-deviled-ham-but-were-afraid-to-ask","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.genealogybank.com\/blog\/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-deviled-ham-but-were-afraid-to-ask.html","title":{"rendered":"Everything You Ever Wanted to Know about Deviled Ham but Were Afraid to Ask"},"content":{"rendered":"

Introduction<\/em><\/strong>: In this article, Gena Philibert-Ortega searches old newspapers to learn more about deviled ham and other deviled foods, including recipes. Gena is a genealogist and author of the book \u201cFrom the Family Kitchen.<\/span>\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

It was an American staple: deviled ham sandwiches on white bread. Its low-priced canned version mixed with mayonnaise made a frequent appearance at lunch when I was growing up, along with tuna fish and bologna sandwiches. Have you ever had a deviled ham sandwich?<\/p>\n

Maybe you\u2019re not sure what the term \u201cdeviled ham\u201d even means. While the unfamiliar may erroneously believe deviled ham is a weird food from the 1950s, the history of this meat spread actually has roots in the 19th century and has long been a stable for some families.<\/p>\n

I searched in GenealogyBank\u2019s Historical Newspaper Archives<\/a> and found some interesting articles about the history and popularity of this tasty, convenient food.<\/p>\n

Deviled Foods<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cDevil\u201d is more than a name. Most people are familiar with deviled eggs, but other deviled foods may be more unfamiliar. So what does it mean to \u201cdevil\u201d a food? The food term \u201cdeviled\u201d has been around since at least the 18th century.*<\/p>\n

This 1984 newspaper article on foods named after the devil explains that \u201cDeviled foods are usually red-hot dishes, highly seasoned with spices or tangy condiments.\u201d When we think of deviled eggs, that spicy addition of mustard provides a tang to the normally subdued and dry egg yolk.<\/p>\n

Of course, not all foods that include the term \u201cdevil\u201d in their title employ spicy ingredients, as in the case of Devil\u2019s Food Cake. As this article notes:<\/p>\n

But there is one deviled dish that defies the description of red hot and spicy. One can only believe that devil\u2019s food cake was named because this dark, moist, fudgy dessert is so tantalizing that it could cause the most devout dieters to fall from grace. Most people agree that devil\u2019s food cake is divine. Perhaps Oscar Wilde had this dessert in mind when he said, \u201cI can resist everything except temptation.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"An<\/a>
Daily Advocate (Stamford, Connecticut), 11 November 1984, page 94<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If you enjoy cooking like me, then this article\u2019s last line will interest you: \u201cSince deviled foods have proven so popular, recipes for some of these dishes are printed below to tempt you.\u201d Don\u2019t worry \u2013 I include these recipes at the end of this blog article.<\/p>\n

This 1975 newspaper article explains that the spices used in deviled foods may include \u201cblack pepper, cayenne, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, powdered mustard, horseradish, hot paprika and garlic.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>
Boston Herald (Boston, Massachusetts), 9 October 1975, page 34<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Underwood Devil Trademark<\/strong><\/p>\n

While there have been various food companies that sell deviled ham, the most recognizable brand is Underwood Deviled Ham in the white-paper-covered can. Trademarked in 1870, Underwood Deviled Ham is still being sold branded with the recognizable Underwood company red devil trademark. In this 1931 newspaper advertisement, we see an early version of the Underwood red devil trademark.<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>
Dallas Morning News (Dallas, Texas), 18 April 1931, page 3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

William Underwood began selling preserved food in 1821 but it was decades before the company was known for its canned meat products. According to an early 20th century recipe booklet published by the William Underwood Company, its foray into deviled meats came at the conclusion of the American Civil War.<\/p>\n

During the Civil War, Mr. Underwood supplied the armies with various canned meats, clearly demonstrating the fact that it was possible to preserve perishable food in large quantities. After the war, he employed his energy in developing an old family recipe, famous among the neighbors, consisting of a process called \u201cdeviling,\u201d a method of mincing meats and adding a piquant dressing made of a great number of spices skillfully blended.<\/p>\n

According to the Underwood recipe booklet, people soon stopped deviling meats at home for it became apparent that the canned product was even better than what they could make in their own kitchen. [p. 6]**<\/p>\n

While most of us are familiar with deviled ham, that is not the only deviled meat product the Underwood Company made. Other canned deviled meats included tongue and chicken.<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>
Fort Worth Star-Telegram (Fort Worth, Texas), 30 August 1918, page 10<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When I searched GenealogyBank\u2019s Historical Newspaper Archives<\/a> for other examples of deviled foods I found recipes for deviled crab, biscuits, lobster, scallops, turkey, olives, and even nuts.<\/p>\n

Deviled Ham: It\u2019s Not Just for Sandwiches!<\/strong><\/p>\n

So it\u2019s obvious that you would use a meat spread for making sandwiches \u2013 but what other recipes could deviled ham incorporate? This 1958 newspaper article points out that deviled ham is versatile and can be used to make other foods including appetizers. This recipe for Spicy Devil Ham Balls \u201csaves the day\u201d when you need a quick appetizer for guests. Once you mix all of the ingredients you pan fry the appetizers and serve with mustard.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
Dallas Morning News (Dallas, Texas), 29 December 1958, section 3, page 6<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Here is the recipe:<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
Dallas Morning News (Dallas, Texas), 29 December 1958, section 3, page 6<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of the more \u201cinteresting\u201d deviled ham recipes I found in the newspaper was published in 1963. The Deviled Ham Ring is:<\/p>\n

A ring of full-flavored squash and meaty, deviled ham surrounds a center of color mixed vegetables…You\u2019ll find Deviled Ham Ring nourishing, too, and so easy to use left-over vegetables although we suggest munchy lima beans and opulent small boiled onions.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"A<\/a>
Dallas Morning News (Dallas, Texas), 17 October 1963, section 5, page 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Of course you can use that canned meat spread for sandwiches and I\u2019m always amazed at how creative some sandwiches were in generations before the submarine sandwich ruled. This 1915 newspaper article includes ideas such as deviled ham sandwiches that mix deviled ham with butter, chutney, and minced chives.<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>
Trenton Evening Times (Trenton, New Jersey), 14 January 1915, page 10<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Here are some of those ham sandwich recipes:<\/p>\n

\"Ham<\/a>
Trenton Evening Times (Trenton, New Jersey), 14 January 1915, page 10<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For those who lack sandwich creativity, you can heed the advice of this 1950 \u201cweekly advertising column of things new and interesting\u201d and add deviled ham to \u201cegg salad, peanut butter, tuna fish and all kinds of cheeses.\u201d The deviled ham and peanut butter sandwich may be an acquired taste.<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>
Seattle Daily Times (Seattle, Washington), 3 September 1950, page 37<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Devil Your Own Ham<\/strong><\/p>\n

You make your own deviled eggs at home, so why not try your hand at deviled ham? Making deviled ham is one way to use up those ham leftovers after the Easter and Christmas holidays. This 1961 recipe for Valentine Day treats includes one for deviled ham that uses mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne peppers to devil the ham. Basically, homemade deviled ham is a combination of finely minced ham and those deviling ingredients.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
Advocate (Baton Rouge, Louisiana), 22 January 1961, page 60<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As promised, here are some more deviled food recipes.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
Daily Advocate (Stamford, Connecticut), 11 November 1984, page 94<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A<\/a>
Daily Advocate (Stamford, Connecticut), 11 November 1984, page 94<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A<\/a>
Daily Advocate (Stamford, Connecticut), 11 November 1984, page 94<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Devil Is in the (Ham) Details<\/strong><\/p>\n

Do you have memories of eating deviled ham sandwiches? Do you still enjoy them today? Have you ever made your own deviled ham? Please share those food memories and recipes with us in the comments section below.<\/p>\n

————————–<\/p>\n

* Bramen, Lisa. Deviled Eggs and Other Foods from Hell. Smithsonian. http:\/\/www.smithsonianmag.com\/arts-culture\/deviled-eggs-and-other-foods-from-hell-123267449\/?no-ist<\/a>
\n** The Little Red Devil Recipes. Boston: Massachusetts: Wm. Underwood Co. [no date]. In the possession of Gena Philibert-Ortega.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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